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Thursday, January 22, 2009

Le Sanctuaire: Goods and Tools for Adventurous Cooks

Posted By on Thu, Jan 22, 2009 at 6:56 PM

The tiny lobby of 315 Sutter, a narrow, nondescript building a couple of blocks from Union Square, gives little clue that a short ride up the elevator leads to one of most esoteric gastronomic destinations in the world: Le Sanctuaire. This unique shop offers a selection of exotic spices, salts, vinegars, and other seasonings; sous vide baths, liquid nitrogen tanks, and other postmodern kitchen tools; molecular-gastronomy requisites such as sodium alginate, methyl cellulose, and maltiol; and a selection of imported books by chefs such as Hestor Blumenthal, Ferran Adria (in Spanish), and Nobu Matsuhisa (in Japanese).


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The most popular seasoning currently is the house-made Vadouvan ($4 per ounce), a French variation on curry powder made by cooking onions, shallots, and garlic until they're almost dehyrdated, tossing them with a blend of 11 spices, and leaving the mix to ferment for at least a week. Unfortunately, we can't bring this to you in Smell-O-Vision: the aroma is incredible.

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Above, a selection of hardware. Clockwise from top left: pastry funnel, CocktailMaster (demonstration video on YouTube), mandoline, citrus juicer, miniature press, food mill.

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Cheap Wines That Don't Suck: Blason Cabernet Franc

Posted By on Thu, Jan 22, 2009 at 1:51 PM

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In Italy's northeastern Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia regions, your typical wine bar doesn't print up a list telling you you which wineries or vintages the wines they're pouring come from, or describing their characteristics. Instead, they just write a list of grape varieties and prices on a chalkboard. This may seem very strange to a visitor from California, but it makes sense: Their everyday wines are made from a single grape variety, rather than blends; vinified without oak, emphasizing freshness and varietal characteristics; released early in the year following the harvest; and consumed by the time the next vintage comes out. Thus, if you know the grape, you have a pretty good idea of what the wine will taste like.

These wines are not all that common in California, and those that are around have often been damaged by sitting in an unrefrigerated container in summer heat, or have simply been held too long in a warehouse. One notable exception is Blason Cabernet Franc ($9.99), which K&L Wine Merchants (638 Fourth St.) imports directly to ensure it arrives in good condition. The wine has a canonical cab franc nose, lots of peppery fruit, a tart, refreshing finish, and pairs well with a wide variety of foods including pizza, pasta, poultry, and meat. The current vintage is 2007, but I've been drinking it since the 2005, and they've been consistently delicious. Before being laid off from my lucrative software-company day job, this was my house red, and it's still the best value I know in the $15-and-under range.

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Video: Sweet Saturday at CocoaBella

Posted By on Thu, Jan 22, 2009 at 9:00 AM

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(Chocolatier Fritz Knipschildt and CocoaBella owner Michael Freeman)

Last Saturday, our intrepid Web editor Janine Kahn and I hit up the original location of CocoaBella Chocolates (2102 Union), joining about 30 others for the store's first Top Chocolatier Pairing of artisan chocolates and alcohol. You may view our slideshow here, and we now have video of the chocolatiers to share.

The handsome Fritz Knipschildt of Norwalk, Connecticut could easily be the pin-up of the chocolate world, and he enhances that idea since all of his luxurious chocolate pieces are named after women. Here he speaks on a special variation of his Hannah piece that he created, aging aged balsamic vinegar to his liquid caramel enrobed in sea salted chocolate, which we enjoyed with a glass of Cornet et Cie Banyuls Rimage.


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Wine Bar of the Week: Terroir

Posted By on Thu, Jan 22, 2009 at 1:00 AM

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Several things make Terroir Natural Wine Merchant (1116 Folsom at Seventh St., a few doors east of Brainwash) my favorite wine bar in the Bay Area. First and foremost, the 15-odd choices on the by-the-glass list, like the hundreds available by the bottle, are usually delicious, always interesting, and mostly wines you won't see elsewhere. The place is often quiet and laid-back, especially in the afternoon and early evening, and even at peak hours the little mezzanine at the back of the room is one of the coziest spots in town to hang out with friends or a date, especially if you can snag the couch. The passionate young owner-bartenders can tell you anything you might want to know about the wines, or about the equally tasteful all-vinyl soundtrack. And for some reason it's rarely hard to find a nearby parking space.

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Why won't you find most of the wines elsewhere? As indicated by its full name, Terroir specializes in natural wines, a somewhat nebulous category that includes products from vineyards and wineries certified as organic and/or biodynamic, as well as from European wineries that simply haven't changed their practices much in the past century. This results in a broader range of grape varieties, appelations, and winemaking styles, and thus more diverse flavors, than you'll find at most other wine bars.

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  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"