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Wednesday, December 3, 2008

Roy's Hawaiian Fusion

Posted By on Wed, Dec 3, 2008 at 5:30 PM

I was invited to try the Fall Prix Fixe Menu currently on offer at Roy's, the high-end "Hawaiian fusion" restaurant chain started 20 years ago in Honolulu by Chef Roy Yamaguchi. A plate of edamame dipped in black sesame, sea salt and chili flakes got to the table right after we did. I was spared my usual annoyance at the many places that serve these soybeans warm and overcooked; they were thankfully chilled and al dente, preserving that nutty flavor. It wasn't long before we were sampling both of the first course selections, a roasted corn and sweet potato chowder good enough to slurp, and tiger prawns wrapped in tangy prosciutto with a buttery goat cheese polenta.


expected to fight over my huge plate of salmon, Hibachi grilled and

cloaked in a topping of creamy Crab "dynamite," but a spicy Asian

pepper and lemongrass sirloin in cognac peppercorn sauce competed

valiantly. The pair made for a good surf and turf combo. There are also

two other main choices, an Island-style braised pork pot roast (which

is the most popular and was sold out before we arrived) and barbecued

Hawaiian Kai beef short ribs.


cobbler wore an apron of white chocolate polka dots, and while I'm a

sugar fiend that rarely utters this phrase, it was just too sweet. A

molten, flourless chocolate cake quickly redressed that balance, and I

found myself wishing the portion sizes on the two were reversed.


at $35 for three courses, it's a good value--particularly so when

compared to the restaurant's own menu, which has several main courses

that are priced over $30. And while winter falls before the end of the

month, this deal extends through December 31. Roy's is located at 575

Mission (at 2nd St.). --Tamara Palmer

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Tamara Palmer


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