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Wednesday, December 3, 2008

Roy's Hawaiian Fusion

Posted By on Wed, Dec 3, 2008 at 5:30 PM

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I was invited to try the Fall Prix Fixe Menu currently on offer at Roy's, the high-end "Hawaiian fusion" restaurant chain started 20 years ago in Honolulu by Chef Roy Yamaguchi. A plate of edamame dipped in black sesame, sea salt and chili flakes got to the table right after we did. I was spared my usual annoyance at the many places that serve these soybeans warm and overcooked; they were thankfully chilled and al dente, preserving that nutty flavor. It wasn't long before we were sampling both of the first course selections, a roasted corn and sweet potato chowder good enough to slurp, and tiger prawns wrapped in tangy prosciutto with a buttery goat cheese polenta.


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We

expected to fight over my huge plate of salmon, Hibachi grilled and

cloaked in a topping of creamy Crab "dynamite," but a spicy Asian

pepper and lemongrass sirloin in cognac peppercorn sauce competed

valiantly. The pair made for a good surf and turf combo. There are also

two other main choices, an Island-style braised pork pot roast (which

is the most popular and was sold out before we arrived) and barbecued

Hawaiian Kai beef short ribs.

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Strawberry

cobbler wore an apron of white chocolate polka dots, and while I'm a

sugar fiend that rarely utters this phrase, it was just too sweet. A

molten, flourless chocolate cake quickly redressed that balance, and I

found myself wishing the portion sizes on the two were reversed.

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Priced

at $35 for three courses, it's a good value--particularly so when

compared to the restaurant's own menu, which has several main courses

that are priced over $30. And while winter falls before the end of the

month, this deal extends through December 31. Roy's is located at 575

Mission (at 2nd St.). --Tamara Palmer


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Tamara Palmer

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