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Wednesday, September 26, 2007

Is Thomas Keller The Britney Spears Of Fine Dining?

Posted By on Wed, Sep 26, 2007 at 10:01 AM

click to enlarge french_laundry.jpg

French Laundry impresario Thomas Keller may officially be the new Britney Spears of the food press, with stories far and near popping up to declare his fall from the dizzying apex of fine dining.

With five Keller-brand restaurants under his belt -- three restaurants, two bistros -- as well as two bakeries and a catering business, inquiring minds want to know: Is the king of French-American cuisine getting too big for his britches?

As if all those ambitious projects weren't enough, there are also plans in the works for "an inn, butcher shop and burger joint," according to Bloomberg News, and -- like the final nail in the coffin of doubters everywhere -- the line of Thomas Keller frozen food, as well as the admission that Bouchon uses frozen French fries. There's nothing like frozen food to raise the ire of high-falutin' foodies.

While Michael Bauer today shrugs off the hullabaloo over Keller's use of frozen French fries saying "Fresh or frozen, I don't really care. To me, the proof is in the eating," over at the New York Times, Frank Bruni seems disappointed by Keller's new directions, saying " ... it represents a diversification and division of interests that arguably contradict Mr. Keller's words and posture in the past."

Frankly, we don't give a shit if he uses frozen French fries, it's not like we can afford to eat at Keller's restaurants anyway.

-- Brian Bernbaum

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Brian Bernbaum

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