Over the next two months, SFoodie is counting down our favorite 50 things to eat and drink in 2012. This is No. 49.
There is no glory to the muffin. After cornflakes and milk, it's the most prosaic breakfast imaginable, the kind of thing you buy flats of from Costco for your office retreat, or grab at the SFO Peet's on the way to your gate simply because every other pastry in the case looks too much like dessert.
Lori Baker, co-owner and pastry chef of Baker & Banker Bakery, makes a blueberry muffin that has more in common with the modern cupcake, an ornate miniature. The oaty, cinnamon-scented crumble on top is so good that some people break it off in crisp-edged hunks to savor by itself, and the crumb is so tender you have to eat the muffin out of the paper wrapping. It's riddled with sweet-tart, collapsed berries, and pockets of cream cheese that leave your lips smeary and a little obscene — especially if you get to the bakery early enough in the morning to buy the muffins when they're warm.
And if you find yourself balking at the $3.50 price, remember: It's not breakfast — it's brunch.