Speaking of slipping, chef James Ormsby may have misstepped when he left Bruno's and stumbled through a short-lived stint at Red Herring. But Harry expects he'll stand tall with his return to the groovy Mission District dining room, which Ormsby had reopened to great acclaim after its renovation three years ago. Harry stopped by Bruno's in early February to find Ormsby re-creating the signature dishes that put the place on the culinary map.
Batter Up Just when we were ready to write off Second Street's Paragon as a modernized version of the original Marina District singles spot, they go and try to improve the menu. Spencer O'Meara (Scala's and Philadelphia's Striped Bass) has been brought in to head up the American Brasserie menu, which has been burned by a low public opinion since the restaurant's opening a year ago. Could Paragon be making a play for some of MoMo's business, which includes lines down the block during baseball season and a loyal cocktail crowd? With a cramped cocktail area and a tiny patio, it's no wonder Paragon is making a pitch for better food.
Big Red Want to know what a 27-liter bottle of wine looks like? Stop by Restaurant LuLu, which is showcasing the gigantic jug given to LuLu's wine buyer, Booth McKinney. One of only three of its kind in the United States, the bottle was a thank you gift from South African winery Rust en Vrede for introducing customers to the wines of the Southern Hemisphere.
Fuzz and Buzz Harry felt much safer at Bix last week: While he was dining downstairs, in came three members of the Secret Service, one of whom checked out the scene before escorting Chelsea Clinton and three girlfriends to an upstairs booth. Bix staff and clientele were nonchalant; hey, this happens all the time in San Francisco.