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Fresh Eats: Food Find: Seoul Patch's Korean Fried Chicken Sando 

Wednesday, Jan 18 2012
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Four months after its debut, Seoul Patch, a lunchtime popup operating out of Rocketfish in Potrero Hill, continues to evolve. Chef Eric Ehler's been spinning out his original ideas — all Korean-American culinary juxtapositions — into new forms, bulking out the menu with new dishes (Brussels sprout chips, ramyeon) and cooking more elaborately in his nighttime activities as co-chef of Reform Club's Sunday dinners at Specchio.

And then there's a dish that started out on Seoul Patch's inaugural menu and just keeps improving: the KFC (Korean fried chicken) sando. Right now, he's stuffing as many chunks of craggy, crunchy fried chicken thighs onto a French roll as he can fit, nestling them into a mayonnaise-rich slaw and brushing a sweet-spicy red sauce onto the bread.

Actually, I wanted more of that sauce, gochujang (fermented chile paste) spiked with caramelized garlic and ginger, not incendiary so much as savory. Ehler says he's about to tweak the sandwich again, taking the coating closer to Chinese sweet-and-sour, but until he does, ask him to double the sauce on your sandwich. Nah, triple it. Just as good: the earthy sesame-oil dressing on the salad greens served alongside, which Ehler thickens with ground, toasted sesame seeds.

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Jonathan Kauffman

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