Out in the Excelsior, there's a bar that opens early and closes early, where men with ballcaps emblazoned with battleship call signs drink shots and beers at 11 a.m. and Johnny Cash is on the jukebox. Everyone's lived here for eons; you may even find a San Francsico accent or two in this place. The marquee outside says Granada Cafe, but that Excelsior Italian mainstay closed down long ago. Instead, it's now a Henry's Hunan (befitting the neighborhood's demographic shift) and the Italian joint's accompanying lounge still serves as a timewarp/lounge. You don't have to have gone to high school in the neighborhood to be welcome here. But it doesn't hurt. No, it does not.