Vino, one of humankind's most ancient triumphs, should be a communal pleasure accessible to one and all, not just to the bourgeois wastrel with the wine cellar and the '66 bordeaux. The owners and sommeliers of PlumpJack do their best to right the scales of grapely appreciation; the restaurant's exhaustive, eclectic wine list is known for its surprisingly affordable nature, and all selections are priced at retail, resulting in levies considerably below the norm. There's a wide variety of California vintages, reflecting the establishment's locally geared nature, from Jory's 1998 La Nina cab rose ($15) to Domaine Carneros' Le Reve sparkling wine ($49), with PlumpJack's own 1998 Reserve chardonnay available at $32. The by-the-glass selections -- numbering an impressive 28 ($5 to $12.50) -- are also available by the half-glass. P.S. The Euro-California food served with the wine is adventurous, and very tasty.