The open kitchen at M.Y. China, celebrity chef Martin Yan's upscale Chinese restaurant at the top of Westfield Mall near Union Square, provides a show in itself. Through the glassed-off walls, you can watch the chefs engage in a dance of pulling noodles, forming dumplings, wok-tossing dishes, and generally showing off their culinary acrobatics. But the real entertainment hasn't started yet. At a certain point in the night, a chef — usually Master Noodle Puller Tony Wu, world champion noodle-puller — emerges on the restaurant floor holding a thick coil of noodle dough. He then proceeds to toss, flip, swirl, and otherwise expertly handle the noodles like a cowboy at a rodeo, stretching them to several times their length. Activity in the dining room stops as diners watch. Then, as quickly as he came, the chef is gone, and you're left with a new appreciation for the noodles on the plate in front of you.