Burger slanger Wes Rowe was a photojournalist and author of a burger blog, but thankfully for the meat-loving citizens of San Francisco, he decided to get on the other side of the counter. His Wednesday night pop-up at Mojo on Divisadero is perpetually packed, and once you eat his food it's easy to see why. Rowe understands what a burger should be: deeply meaty, oozing with cheese and sauce, with toppings that enhance the flavor but don't take away from the elemental satisfaction of the thing. The burger's beefiness is achieved through a custom-ground brisket patty that's fried in a cast-iron pan, sometimes with onions underneath, to season the meat with its own fat and juices. Rowe's most famous creation is the Hot Wes, a masterful take on Jack in the Box's Hot Mess, topped with onion rings, pickled jalapeno, and homemade queso, befitting his Texas roots. But his weekly offerings at his pop-ups around town range from a bruschetta burger with basil-garlic aioli, balsamic tomatoes, and mozzarella, to the basic All-American with American cheese and yellow mustard. And, though Rowe is a friend, when we closed our eyes and thought back on all the burgers we've eaten over the past year, his creations were consistently at the top.