You can hate the fact that Anthony Mangieri only serves five pizzas, with no substitutions or side salads, and that he doesn't take reservations. Fine. Hate away. But what you can't deny is that the pizzas are some of the best you will ever eat. Mangieri has become so masterful that his pizzas seem to embody the Taoist notion of wu wei, or natural action: The crust swells and bubbles, alternately puffy and charred crisp, as if it were thrown onto the floor of the oven. Cheese pools in irregular rhythm. Basil leaves are scattered as if they've just drifted down. But all are orchestrated so carefully that each bite is both distinct and reflective of the whole. The pizza is good enough to dispel any inconvenience you encountered en route to taking that first bite.