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Dining, SFoodie Stag Dining Group: Not Quite Underground, But Still a Feast

Stag Dining Group: Not Quite Underground, But Still a Feast

The underground dining movement of the last decade, whose fiercest proponents claimed would "kill the restaurant," has either matured or been thrashed into shape, depending on who you ask. Stag Dining Group, the subject of this week's full-length restaurant review in…
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Dining, SFoodie There's a National Kerfuffle About Restaurant Stars, and Why I Don't Care

There's a National Kerfuffle About Restaurant Stars, and Why I Don't Care

If you hadn't heard, the LA Times, which recently hired Jonathan Gold away from our sister paper the LA Weekly, made the decision last week to drop assigning stars to restaurant reviews. "Star ratings are increasingly difficult to align with…
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Dining, SFoodie Izakaya Yuzuki Takes Its Cooking Back to the Base

Izakaya Yuzuki Takes Its Cooking Back to the Base

We are in the era of chocolate makers who import their cacao beans via sailing ship, bartenders making tonic water from cinchona bark, and brewers using leftover bread yeast to make beer. The closer you take your cooking back to…
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Dining, SFoodie Wo Hing General Store: Cantonese Home Cooking Not for the Masses

Wo Hing General Store: Cantonese Home Cooking Not for the Masses

​It took me a few weeks to sort through my feelings about Charles Phan's new Wo Hing General Store, the subject of this week's full-length restaurant review in the paper. The Slanted Door owner is nationally known for Vietnamese food,…
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Dining, SFoodie Sigh. More Food Words We're Not Supposed to Use.

Sigh. More Food Words We're Not Supposed to Use.

Chow/Chowhound have just posted their list of the 78 most annoying words and phrases used in a restaurant review, which includes "tucking into," "organic," and "unctuous." Add the list to a growing genre that includes LA Weekly's funny two lists…
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Dining, SFoodie Beijing Restaurant: The Winteriest of Cuisines

Beijing Restaurant: The Winteriest of Cuisines

It seems fitting that this week's review of Beijing Restaurant's new Outer Sunset branch should come out on a week when snowy patches have appeared in 49 of 50 states. (Are you as envious as I am?) To a German…
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Dining, SFoodie Jonathan Kauffman's 2010 Favorites Reveal S.F.'s New Dining Landscape

Jonathan Kauffman's 2010 Favorites Reveal S.F.'s New Dining Landscape

A favorite dish usually doesn't reveal more than some quirk of your own id, or the scale of your aspirations. For SF Weekly food critic Jonathan Kauffman, his recollection of the five best things he ate this year is a…
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Dining, SFoodie Twenty Five Lusk Rolls Out the Grandeur in SOMA

Twenty Five Lusk Rolls Out the Grandeur in SOMA

Deciding where to come down on Twenty Five Lusk ― the super-money SOMA eatery that launched in October ― depends on your closet, probably. If it harbors a $600 Theory sportcoat, SFoodie would like to introduce you to your new…
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Dining, SFoodie This Week's Review: Una Pizza Napoletana

This Week's Review: Una Pizza Napoletana

This week I reviewed Una Pizza Napolitana, where owner and sole cook Anthony Mangieri practices a singular devotion to making pizza, and has developed a fervid following for it. (Read my interview with Mangieri here.) We have entered the…
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Dining, SFoodie Cafe des Amis Is at Its Best When It's Least French

Cafe des Amis Is at Its Best When It's Least French

There's Le Central, of course. Café Claude, Grand Café. And anybody who ever perched an awkward paper toque on their head in culinary school had to make croissants and bouillabaisse like they were essential stops along the road to the…
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Dining, SFoodie French Dip: The Cuisine of Cafe des Amis in Photos

French Dip: The Cuisine of Cafe des Amis in Photos

Visiting SF Weekly critic Matthew Stafford drops in on Cafe des Amis, where ― for better or worse ― French culinary classics undergo an update. Photographer Lara Hata captured images of the food, from cocktails to dessert. Brandade de…
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Dining, SFoodie Benu Forges a New Kind of Haute

Benu Forges a New Kind of Haute

It can take a lifetime for an artist to forge a personal vernacular. Or if not a lifetime, then a bit longer than 10 weeks, for sure. At Benu ― subject of Jonathan Kauffman's review today ― French Laundry veteran…
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Dining, SFoodie This Week's Review: Ippuku

This Week's Review: Ippuku

Lara HataA sampler plate of yakitori from Ippuku. ​This week, I traveled to downtown Berkeley to review Ippuku, Christian Geideman's yakitori restaurant. To me, the beauty of the restaurant came from the narrowness of its focus: Geideman's menu has several…
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Dining, SFoodie Micropatisseries, the Recession, and You: This Week's Review

Micropatisseries, the Recession, and You: This Week's Review

Kimberly SandieThe mini pound cake from Pinkie's Bakery.​A while back, I started noticing that each new pastry shop that opened in San Francisco ― and there have been a lot of them since January, when I arrived back in town…
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Dining, SFoodie Revamped Big Nate's Is a Big Disappointment

Revamped Big Nate's Is a Big Disappointment

Big Nate's BBQ recently stepped up its cooking methods and the quality of its meats (Eater reported last May that Fly Bar's Matt Sturm was joining founder Nate Thurmond and a third partner, Chris Cronk). Indeed, when we visited last…
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Dining, SFoodie This Week's Review: Zero Zero

This Week's Review: Zero Zero

Lara Hata​The anti-pizza sentiment in the media is almost as extreme as the public furor for it. While the foodistas may yawn, or moan, about the appearance of yet another upscale pizzeria, Zero Zero ― the subject of this…
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Dining, SFoodie Jonathan Kauffman Eats at Viva Goa, Wonders What 'Authentic' Means

Jonathan Kauffman Eats at Viva Goa, Wonders What 'Authentic' Means

Fuck authenticity, a word used ― in the context of food we approve of ― like Vaseline on memory's lens. When it's food we don't exactly like, it can be a cudgel. But what can ever be "authentic" about a…
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Dining, SFoodie Slow Club, the Dorian Gray of Restaurants

Slow Club, the Dorian Gray of Restaurants

Part of a series about restaurants that have been around so long they've slipped into a media black hole.It's been 19 years since Erin Rooney's Slow Club opened, and when I visited last week, it seemed populated with the…
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Dining, SFoodie Jonathan Kauffman Burns for Mission Chinese Food's Danny Bowien

Jonathan Kauffman Burns for Mission Chinese Food's Danny Bowien

Maybe Danny Bowien couldn't thrive anywhere else but in San Francisco. Maybe the same is true of Mission Chinese Food, the Chinese-restaurant-in-a-Chinese-restaurant Bowien orchestrates at Lung Shan. SF Weekly critic Jonathan Kauffman puts himself in Bowien's hands for this week's…
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Dining, SFoodie Rocketfish: Fatal Fusion on Potrero Hill

Rocketfish: Fatal Fusion on Potrero Hill

The name "Rocketfish" reminds us of a doomed dot-com circa-1999, dreamed up by a couple of college buddies during a long night of beer pong. In reality, it's Potrero Hill's two-month-old self-billed "Japanese tapistro," featuring the food of Kenichi Kawashima,…
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