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Friday, August 12, 2016

Eat This: the Pork Bowl at Dabba

Posted By on Fri, Aug 12, 2016 at 2:15 PM

Dabba's pork bowl - PETER LAWRENCE KANE
  • Peter Lawrence Kane
  • Dabba's pork bowl
There's something slightly suspicious about the category "fast-casual." Lunch is so rushed, and it's easy to settle for an unsatisfactory meal just to get something in your stomach, that a few buzzwords can lure us in. Fast-casual is the food equivalent of "athleisure," which basically consists of ugly clothes that are too functional too dismiss. (And if everybody else is wearing them, too, who will judge you?)

At its worst, fast-casual can be bloodless and corporatized, and leave you feeling like you got hoodwinked into paying a premium for a glorified Subway foot-long made with the world's palest tomato. But at its best, it's tasty, nutritious, and convenient. Dabba, the SoMa brick-and-mortar concept that evolved out of a food truck dedicated to "ethnic confusions" doesn't feel like anyone convened a focus group to determine what's trendy with the millennials. Rather, it derives from Avatar's, the Indian restaurant in Sausalito where the recipes were never written down.

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Tuesday, July 5, 2016

Please Don't Judge Mac Daddy Til You Eat There!

Posted By on Tue, Jul 5, 2016 at 8:00 AM

South of the Border Mac - PETER LAWRENCE KANE
  • Peter Lawrence KAne
  • South of the Border Mac
San Francisco has not one but two restaurant companies devoted to grilled cheese — each of which has two or more locations. Grilled cheese is the easiest thing in the world to make apart from pouring milk over cereal, but hey, if that's what the people want, then give it to them (at a profit). That said, I feel like grilled cheese is still the standard by which the infantilization of our culture can be judged.

While it’s also an affordable comfort food, mac 'n' cheese has something up on grilled cheese: It’s actually worth standing in line for. Oakland has long had Homeroom, a joyfully tongue-in-cheek take on that staple of Southern cuisine, and now Potrero Hill has Mac Daddy, a mac 'n' cheese-centric restaurant whose offerings forego Homeroom's creamy textures in favor of more toppings (and, at $12-$15, they're a couple bucks higher in price).

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Wednesday, June 22, 2016

Wednesday Nine: SoMa StrEat Food Park's Midwayville, Treasure Island Gets a Beer Beach

Posted By on Wed, Jun 22, 2016 at 3:30 PM

A cool vintage sign I encountered in Spokane, Wash., recently. The panda doesn't seem altogether happy with the burger. - PETER LAWRENCE KANE
  • Peter Lawrence Kane
  • A cool vintage sign I encountered in Spokane, Wash., recently. The panda doesn't seem altogether happy with the burger.
Plus Richie Nakano weighs in on a lot of stuff, Schroeder's auctions off some vintage steins, and Burger King jumps on the mac 'n' cheese craze.

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Wednesday, June 15, 2016

Lunch-Only Sababa Has 120 Permutations of Jewish-Middle Eastern Goodness

Posted By on Wed, Jun 15, 2016 at 1:00 PM

7400bb88-8517-451e-bb09-4994b15d9b5d.jpeg

Only a few weeks after the debut of its truly great Mexican restaurant, Fénix, the Mercer Restaurant Group has opened a quieter, less ambitious, but no less delicious lunch spot in the Financial District: Sababa. While nominally a Middle Eastern restaurant, it might be more accurate to describe the various dishes as “pan-Jewish diaspora.” Although you won’t find bailies or celery soda, there are things like sabik (eggplant and a 300-minute egg) and an Israeli salad with chopped tomato, cucumber, and onion.

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Tuesday, June 7, 2016

How to Eat LocoL: A cheat sheet for interpreting Oakland's latest fast food fad

Posted By on Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 1:00 PM

A.K. CARROLL
  • A.K. Carroll
Roy Choi (Kogi BBQ) and Daniel Patterson (Coi, Plum Bar, Haven) are on a mission to change the way you think about fast food. Their brain child — LocoL — aspires to offer quality food at affordable prices, while also serving as a platform for social change in dynamic neighborhoods.

The duo opened their first location in the Watts neighborhood of LA in January and their second in Uptown Oakland late last month. The latest LocoL is decked out with comic book cartoon characters, electronic kiosks and a menu that takes a little effort to decode.

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Tuesday Six: Freddie Prinze Jr.'s Cookbook, Michelin Stars Gone Wild

Posted By on Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 11:12 AM

VIA RODALE WELLNESS
  • via Rodale Wellness
The world of Michelin stars gets ever more competitive for chefs but easier to manage as a diner.

Freddie Prinze Jr. releases the cookbook you’ve been waiting for your entire life 
Re member when it was the '90s, and everything was better? Well, the '90s actor famous for having the most stable Hollywood marriage with his wife Sarah Michelle Gellar has finally answered our prayers and published a cookbook. It’s family-focused and rooted in Freddie's New Mexican upbringing. If you buy his book, now he will know what you did this summer. (That joke has been a long time coming.)

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Monday, June 6, 2016

Monday Six: Rockridge Improvement Club; Eatsa initiates breakfast menu; Shark fin ban upheld

Posted By on Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 7:00 AM

7-Eleven's delicious abomination - ALI WUNDERMAN
  • Ali Wunderman
  • 7-Eleven's delicious abomination
Plus sharks celebrate multiple wins with a continued ban on their fins, while 7-Eleven debuts a shark-themed donut full of shock, awe, and jelly.

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Monday, May 16, 2016

Tony Gemignani’s Slice House Hits The Market

Posted By on Mon, May 16, 2016 at 7:30 PM

The Grandma - PETER LAWRENCE KANE
  • Peter Lawrence Kane
  • The Grandma
As with insane rents and the specter of venture capital getting into the coffee game, when the topic of pizza-by-the-slice comes up, the inevitable comparison is to New York. But while San Francisco has made admirable gains over the last few years with its pizza options, the fact that we have far fewer corner pizza joints might be what’s prevented a race to the bottom in prices. (The cost of New York’s slices is notorious for running neck-and-neck with the base subway fare, currently $2.75.) In other words: pizza here costs a lot more.

That’s the first thing I thought of when I encountered the $6 slices at Tony Gemignani’s new Slice House outpost inside The Market, the high-end grocery and food hall on the ground floor of Market Square. The second thing I thought of, of course, was holy damn, this is good pizza, worth every cent. The Sweet Grandma (like a Sicilian-style slice, but full of enough air pockets to keep it pillowy) comes with sliced Aiello cheese, a sweet sauce that’s added after the baking, sliced fresh mozzarella, sea salt, basil, oregano, Romano cheese, and a garlic sauce. I’d love to know the exact contents of that sweet sauce, which are pretty hard to tease out in the company of so many other strong flavors, but its honeyed presence remains the top note, and the fat blobs of mozz bleed together nicely.

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Monday, May 9, 2016

Homage Takes the Spirit of Locavorism to New Heights

Posted By on Mon, May 9, 2016 at 1:30 PM

Chicken tartine - PETER LAWRENCE KANE
  • Peter Lawrence Kane
  • Chicken tartine
In the ever-so-slightly subterranean space formerly occupied by Galette 88 comes another endeavor that elevates lunch from a meal eaten while hunched over your iPad to an act that can heal the world. Homage is an upscale spot with wall art that matches the matches the patterns in the floorboards and a penchant for sourcing ingredients from farms and turning them into unexpected dishes.

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Friday, May 6, 2016

Hungry Like the Wolves: The Den Hits the Bayview

Posted By on Fri, May 6, 2016 at 12:00 PM

PETER LAWRENCE KANE
  • Peter Lawrence Kane
Bayview-Hunters Point remains in an early enough phase of gentrification that there is still plenty of opportunity for hearts to break over and over. Lennar Urban’s 12,000-unit development The Shipyard is gradually filling the neighborhood with new residents, and a Starbucks — the Bayview’s first — is expected to go into 3801 Third Street sometime in the months to come.

In the meantime, Valencia Street’s award-winning patisserie Craftsman and Wolves — hot off an expansion to Pacific Heights — has dedicated one corner of its Bayview commissary space located a block away from Third Street to The Den, a small retail location that sells chef (and Quince alum) William Werner’s high-end baked goods to residents who can afford them.

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  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"