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Thursday, August 11, 2016

Drink This: The Horchata Latte at Noman Coffee

Posted By on Thu, Aug 11, 2016 at 1:00 PM

PETER LAWRENCE KANE
  • Peter Lawrence Kane
In Homeric myth, Odysseus fools Polyphemus the man-eating cyclops by getting him drunk, telling him his name is "Noman," and driving a spear into his eye. When the other cyclopses ask Polyphemus who hurt him, he says, "Noman!" and Odysseys escapes in the confusion.

Meanwhile, Noman Coffee in the Mission has an horchata latte with a slightly more down-to-earth provenance than The Odyssey: It came from one of the baristas' abuelas. Still, the caffeine-filled shipping container that doubles as an art gallery and performance space has a lofty streak worth of its name. The art on the walls and the beer in the taps is edgy, but on a recent morning, instead of Beach House or Phantogram, the music inside came from Mozart's Cosi Fan Tutte.

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Friday, July 15, 2016

Through the Kitchen Window, a (Mostly) Monthly Euro-Asian Pop-Up

Posted By on Fri, Jul 15, 2016 at 10:30 AM

Frank and beans - PETER LAWRENCE KANE
  • Peter Lawrence Kane
  • Frank and beans
Now that pop-ups are commonplace, it's good to encounter a truly creative one that's capable of serving more than six or eight dishes. Chef Joji Kumi and Alexis Katsilometes' Through the Kitchen Window, a mostly monthly enterprise formerly held inside Range (and moving to PizzaHacker for its August go-round) is one. Here, the small plates — of which there are an impressive 15 — all run between $8 and $12, supplemented by a couple meaty, for-the-table entrees for $30 to $50. (Full disclosure: Katsilometes is a former contributor to SFoodie.)

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Wednesday, July 6, 2016

In a Personal Note, Thomas McNaughton Will Close Central Kitchen July 9, and Reopen 12 Days Later

Posted By on Wed, Jul 6, 2016 at 4:18 PM

Central Kitchen - THE DAPPER DINER
  • The Dapper Diner
  • Central Kitchen

"The crazy momentum of a busy restaurant, open every day, makes it hard to implement changes, let alone the major overhaul we have been thinking about for some time now," says Thomas McNaughton.

Forgoing a typical press release in favor of a personal letter to friends (as he put it), McNaughton announced that Central Kitchen (3000 20th St.) will close on July 9. The stated goal of being an "accessible neighborhood restaurant" never really came to pass, as — to McNaughton's evident frustration — Central Kitchen has always been "perceived as a higher-end restaurant, and that has never felt right to me."

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Wednesday, April 6, 2016

Wildhawk Is a Cipher, But It’s Also a Bar

Posted By on Wed, Apr 6, 2016 at 1:30 PM

PETER LAWRENCE KANE
  • Peter Lawrence Kane

Rebecca Solnit has been on a tear lately.

The notable writer and San Francisco resident of 35 years, known for penning the most intellectually vigorous takedown to date of the city’s tech shuttle culture advocates, recently wrote an impassioned essay in The Guardian about the murder of Alex Nieto. “Death by Gentrification” made many compelling points, but was later called out by San Francisco Magazine’s Joe Eskenazi for presenting an incomplete picture. Last weekend, Solnit did a Facebook drive-by of Wildhawk, the PlumpJack Group venue that recently opened where longtime Mission lesbian bar The Lexington Club used to be.

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Thursday, February 11, 2016

Closure Double-Whammy: Doc's Clock and Dat Spot

Posted By on Thu, Feb 11, 2016 at 6:15 PM

LOCALSBARGUIDE.COM
  • localsbarguide.com

I hate writing these.

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Wednesday, December 16, 2015

Making a Neighborhood Cocktail: The Mission

Posted By on Wed, Dec 16, 2015 at 11:00 AM

VIA 10BEST.COM
  • via 10best.com
Now, I'm more into putting the first part of 'cocktail' into my mouth, but if I have to have an alcoholic beverage, I want it to be a metaphorical representation of my personal human experience. That’s why I’ve created this series, to investigate what the essence of San Francisco neighborhoods would look like in cocktail form.

Long has the Manhattan reigned supreme as the classic cocktail. The flavor evokes the elegance of the borough for which it’s named, demanding respect from anyone who drinks it. Though it’s a relatively uncomplicated mixture — whiskey, sweet vermouth, and bitters — it keeps Manhattan cemented in urban royalty, which is totally unfair considering how much higher San Francisco’s rent prices are.

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Tuesday, December 15, 2015

Exclusive: Bear Versus Bull, Alamo Drafthouse's New Menu

Posted By on Tue, Dec 15, 2015 at 7:30 PM

The ceiling of the New Mission Theater. - PETER LAWRENCE KANE
  • Peter Lawrence Kane
  • The ceiling of the New Mission Theater.

Seldom do you see one of the biggest openings of a given year take place during the last two weeks of it, but that’s the way the calendar fell in 2015. The Alamo Drafthouse’s debut coincided with what will surely be the highest-grossing film in history. (Hint: It’s an anagram of RAW TSARS.)
And because this is San Francisco, it’s also the debut of a massive bar, Bear Versus Bull.

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Monday, December 14, 2015

Farm Toast for all Seasons

Posted By on Mon, Dec 14, 2015 at 12:00 PM

A.K. CARROLL
  • A.K. Carroll
Humans are creatures of habit, from the way we take our coffee to the seats we choose on an airplane. When a person finds something she truly loves — a style of jeans, a shade of lipstick, a standing order at Chipotle — she goes back to that favorite again and again. This makes the concept of seasonal eating a tough one to swallow. Just when I find an exceptional piece of produce or a favorite summer special, it goes off the menu and I'm left to start over.
Such was the case with the farm toast at Myriad Gastropub. A tribute to stone fruit, the summer farm toast featured thick slices of sage-roasted plums layered over generous waves of fromage blanc atop wedges of grill-seared baguette. The whole ensemble was sprinkled with toasted pistachios and drizzled with a balsamic reduction. As someone who lives for sharing, it was all I could do not to slide a slice to the table beside me. As it was, I shared the dish with a friend and still took a small portion home.

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Wednesday, December 9, 2015

Chatting With Chef Ronnie New About What's Doing at Alamo Drafthouse

Posted By on Wed, Dec 9, 2015 at 12:00 PM

PETER LAWRENCE KANE
  • Peter Lawrence Kane

When I got a walk-through of the New Mission Theater earlier this week, it looked like a construction zone by way of the Vatican. In preparation for the Alamo  Drafthouse’s opening next Thursday, Dec. 10, there were hundreds of workers scurrying about beneath the restored baroque ceilings and labyrinthine staircases: hardhats, front-of-house hires getting a menu tutorial, P.R. people typing at laptops on bar stools.

Chef Ronnie New was attempting to explain his Nashville hot chicken to 30 or so prospective servers, but the AV guys kept accidentally turning on a pre-screening clip involving Felix the Cat. An apologetic “Sorry, chef!” reverberated through the 330-seat main theater, and New patiently bore it out.

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Monday, November 30, 2015

Salumeria Has a Decadent Brunch (As You'd Expect)

Posted By on Mon, Nov 30, 2015 at 5:00 PM

Fried chicken and egg sandwich - PETER LAWRENCE KANE
  • Peter Lawrence Kane
  • Fried chicken and egg sandwich

There’s a pernicious rumor that breakfast is the most important meal of the day. It’s a lie; it’s brunch. Brunch is like the Golden Hydrant that saves you from a hangover that feels like everything is burning down all around you, it provides the foundation for more day-drinking, and it helps you forget that sooner or later, you will have to go back to work.

While Salumeria may not be the flagship of the Ne Timeas Restaurant Group, Thomas McNaughton’s wonderful deli and sandwich spot rolled out a brunch menu a couple weeks ago that makes it the eggier equivalent of those roast beef sandwiches on pretzel rolls. In a word, it’s delicious. And it’s fairly slim: three sweet things, three larger savory dishes, three smaller savory items, and three low-ABV cocktails, including the classic mimosa.

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  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"