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Friday, September 25, 2015

The Dorian Is Now Open in the Increasingly Cool Marina

Posted By on Fri, Sep 25, 2015 at 4:31 PM

click to enlarge AMY HEROLD
  • Amy Herold

“Martinis - Whiskey - Provisions” is how The Dorian, now open on Chestnut Street in the Marina, bills itself. (By advertising the first two, they’ve pretty much covered all the basics, if you ask us.) While it’s too focused on American whiskeys to be named exclusively for the ambiguous Oscar Wilde character who remained eternally youthful in spite of being morally corrupted, we are more than willing to corrupt ourselves throwing back fancy drinks over a dozen Miyagi oysters and beef tenderloin tartare.

click to enlarge AMY HEROLD
  • Amy Herold

The Marina is growing cooler all the time, and Executive Chef Chris Ricketts is part of the wave, with avocado toast, a chipotle roasted shrimp (itself made with avocado toast), lots of cured meats and cheeses, and a $40 “Royal Dorian” (a house burger with Dungeness crab and black truffle). There are also some 75 whiskeys behind the teal-and-purple bar. Don’t slouch on the cocktails, particularly the highly drinkable Fifty Fifty (equal parts gin and vermouth, with the vermouth half being part dry manzanilla sherry) and the Clockwork (rye, Punt e Mes, Benedictin, and black walnut bitters).

Additional menu verbiage beckons to us like a mythical siren: “Add a bottle of Champagne Perrier-Jouet to your shellfish plateau,” “Moules Frites - ‘death in the afternoon,’” and “dollar oysters at happy hour, Tuesday-Friday, 4:30-6:30 p.m.” These are keywords that tickle us so —
and brunch is coming, late this fall.

Textured wallpaper, antique artifacts, and lots of added windows are sure to lure in all libertines, lushes, bohemians, and badasses from environs near and distant. Oscar Wilde believed in art for art’s sake. The Dorian prefers hedonism for hedonism’s sake.

The Dorian, 2001 Chestnut St., 415-814-2671.


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About The Author

Peter Lawrence Kane

Bio:
Peter Lawrence Kane is SF Weekly's Arts Editor. He has lived in San Francisco since 2008 and is two-thirds the way toward his goal of visiting all 59 national parks.

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