It takes a certain amount of chutzpah to offer a fried chicken sandwich so close to Bakesale Betty, where the lunchtime line has become a common site on Telegraph Avenue. But it seems that the folks at Clove & Hoof, Temescal’s newest butchery and sandwich shop, have it.
This sandwich starts with a base of two, juicy thighs; it's then topped with a fish-sauce caramel, Old Bay butter sauce, apple celery-leaf slaw, and pomegranate seeds, which all sit on a French hero roll. It's size — the thighs amassing weight from being battered and friend — could easily feed two. Biting into it, the chicken is still a bit pink inside, rarer than many people may expect. Slightly sweet from the caramel, with bursts of tanginess from the pomegranate seeds, this was one sweet, salty, crunchy, and very delicious affair.
Those behind the sandwich are Analiesa Gosnell, general manager, and John Blevins, executive chef, who in addition to studying butchery in France, have a background at places such as Café Rouge and 4505 Meats.
Still in soft opening mode, Clove & Hoof, which is on the corner of Broadway and 40th Avenue, is already full on most days. With a retro feel, it offers cuts of whole animal butchery from sustainable, local farms, and a rotating menu of sandwiches and salads. Also, it should be noted, that an original vegetarian option – egg salad with kimchi – is always offered. But at the same time, there’s no mistaking that first and foremost, this place is dedicated to meat — that point is made clear with the sides of cassoulet and beef tallow fries. Beverage options include old-time favorites like Milwaukee’s Best beer in a can and old-fashioned sodas, and their devotion to pickling is on display when you first walk in.
Currently they're only open for lunch, but have plans to offer dinner service next year, as well as they have a charcuterie program.
Clove & Hoof is at 4001 Broadway, Oakland; Wed-Sun 11 a.m.-6 p.m.