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Tuesday, August 19, 2014

A Turkish Dish Goes Vegetarian at Troya

Posted By on Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 8:01 AM

click to enlarge JULIE KRAMER
  • Julie Kramer
Troya on Fillmore is the kind of place that makes you feel instantly welcome. Walk into the long, warmly-lit space – formerly occupied by Citizen Cake and, before that, neighborhood fixture Vivande Porta Via – and you’ll be welcomed by a host who seems genuinely glad you stopped in. There is a bar to one side, and on the other, simple wood tables; it is elegant without being fancy. The food, described as Turkish-inspired Mediterranean, is divided into mezes, Anatolian flatbreads, kebabs and larger plates.

It’s easy to make a meal of several small plates: warmed olives, beautiful salads made with local and seasonal ingredients, a trio of dips with Turkish bread. The latter, by the way, is not to be missed: it consists of hummus, haydari (thick garlic flavored with yogurt and herbs), and muhammara (a smoky-sweet puree of red peppers, walnuts, olive oil and spices).

click to enlarge JULIE KRAMER
  • Julie Kramer
Right now, there is also a large plate that is perfect for sharing. Beyti is a Turkish dish that’s traditionally made with grilled lamb wrapped in lavash and topped with savory sauces. In a vegetarian-friendly twist, Troya’s Fillmore location offers a cauliflower beyti that is both beautifully presented and satisfying. Purple, orange and white cauliflower are roasted with olive oil, coriander seed and salt; the cauliflower is then given a quick fry with some potatoes to add a crisp texture.

The vegetables are rolled up in spinach lavash with fennel and onion pickles, arugula and a dill-mint yogurt sauce. A not-too-spicy tomato sauce, roasted garlic yogurt, paprika and parsley top the beyti, which is sliced into six pieces. Arranged with each piece standing on end, this is an impressive-looking entree, and one that has multiple layers of flavor.

If you’d prefer to have beyti with lamb, Troya on Clement will oblige, but you’d be missing a really special, creative take on the dish. Truly, this is food that delights both visually and gastronomically; add in the welcoming vibe and you’re bound to be a happy – and perhaps regular – customer.

Troya. 2125 Fillmore, 563-1000.
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Julie Kramer

Julie Kramer

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