Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Wednesday, May 21, 2014

Papito West's Duck Confit Burrito Is the Height of Decadence

Posted By on Wed, May 21, 2014 at 4:00 PM

click to enlarge PETE KANE
  • Pete Kane

Most of the new Mexican restaurants of note that have opened lately aim for the higher end of the scale, importing the culinary experimentation of Mexico City or digging deep into Southern Mexico's indigenous cuisines. In other words, we aren't really adding more top-notch burrito joints to the burrito pantheon.

See Also: Greek Food Gets Its Due at Souvla in Hayes Valley

Papito West in Hayes Valley might change that. The spinoff of Potrero Hill's Papito is a lunch-and-dinner spot best described by the helpful oxymoron "upscale casual." By that I mean the $12-or-thereabouts menu options are familiar enough, but with little fancy twists here and there, such as crudo at the raw bar, the particularly flavorful rice in the burritos. Those burritos, along with the tacos, come with a wider range of options than the usual chorizo or carnitas, such as rock cod, fried chicken, and a rather spectacular duck confit.

click to enlarge PETE KANE
  • Pete Kane

A duck confit burrito is one of those things that will probably register with people either as a duh-I-can't-believe-I've-never-had-that-before or as proof that we truly live in a circa-1788 Versailles of dining. It's decadent, but also well-assembled, with all the key ingredients easily discerned by the palate but not so "zoned" that you risk a big bite of nothing but guac. It was a bit runny, and at $16 (including tax and tip), probably not everyone's everyday lunch go-to, but thoroughly filling and enjoyable.

As with the recently opened Souvla barely one block up Hayes Street, it's a fresh, white-tiled and skylit space with an eye-catching graphic that takes up an entire wall. (In this case, it's a woman in Día de Los Muertos makeup, ringed with roses.) At lunch, the place is pure bustle, absolutely crammed with workers and patrons, yet the place doesn't break a sweat. Hayes Valley has long cried out for quality Mexican fare, and Papito West is pitched perfectly with its surroundings.

Papito West, 425 Hayes St., 431-2440.

Follow @wannacyber

  • Pin It

About The Author

Pete Kane

Pete Kane

Pete Kane is a total gaylord who is trying to get to every national park before age 40


Comments are closed.

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook


  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"