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Wednesday, January 22, 2014

CDXX, a Burger Joint in the Bayview. With a Croughnut!

Posted By on Wed, Jan 22, 2014 at 8:00 AM

click to enlarge PETE KANE
  • Pete Kane

Lest anyone instantly put on their internet-cynicism spectacles just from hearing the word croughnut (or cronut, or crauxnutte, or whatever), yes, they're so six months ago, yes, CDXX has one, and yes, it's really good. There.

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This café/restaurant with sports bar overtones might do well to focus a bit once it's cleared all the grand opening hurdles, but as it stands, it's a New American restaurant with lots of brunch and burger options and the usual sustainability commitment on the usual altar. The Black and Blue Burger (with Cajun spices, melted bleu cheese and caramelized onions) bore an impeccable ratio of juiciness to fattiness, but the burgers' $11-$17 price range does feel a bit out of joint with a low-income neighborhood, more in line with Kronnerburger or Monk's Kettle. In fact, there's something of a faint hole in the menu, between Caesar salad on the one hand and burgers or steak frites on the other, where lunch ought to be. But back to that croughnut: it's a flaky, sugary beauty with just the right density. Do try one before hammering the final nail into that trend's coffin. (There's a blueberry pie version, too!)

click to enlarge PETE KANE
  • Pete Kane

click to enlarge PETE KANE
  • Pete Kane

As befitting something along a commuter transit line -- which would be the T -- CDXX opens at 6 a.m. Tuesday through Friday, but also stops serving early (8 p.m.) Doubtless this will be seen as filling a niche, but it's hard not to feel like $15 burgers are a seismic shift for the neighborhood, especially given the antiseptic, Mission Bay-ish feel to the overall building. Maybe in ten years when the Bayview is unrecognizable, short-term residents will one-up one another with, "Yeah? Well, I've been here since CDXX opened -- and I had a croughnut! Remember those? God, that was delicious."

CDXX, 5800 Third St., 652-5450.

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About The Author

Pete Kane

Pete Kane

Bio:
Pete Kane is a total gaylord who is trying to get to every national park before age 40

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