Okay, Salumeria is expensive. But if you ever find yourself pressed for time and starving and ordering one of those $5 foot-longs from a certain national chain because they've been promoting them so heavily all through September, you may realize why that chain is so cheap.
Having opened a second location only about eight blocks from Salumeria number one (which is all in a cluster with Central Kitchen and flour + water and the rest of their empire), Thomas McNaughton and company can do no wrong. This outpost is in the atrium of the Hamm's Brewery, which is currently under renovation. So if you're the kind of person who's bothered by the sound of a nail gun while you eat, you may want to hold off on visiting for another couple of days.
But even the deafening cacophony of construction melts away as you bite into a braised pork shoulder with stewed peppers and salsa verde on a pretzel roll.
Almost unbelievably, the salumi, mozzarella, red onion, and pickled pepper relish sandwich on focaccia was even better, the quality of the bread outmatched only by that of the salumi. The fact that McNaughton is from New Jersey might play a role, because this is the Platonic ideal of an NYC hero.
A happy hour menu is in the works (Hamm's, maybe?), but this Salumeria is already open for breakfast, with granola, grain porridge, bagels and a breakfast wrap, plus sticky buns and sour cream coffee cake by Black Jet, Mr. Espresso coffee and Five Mountains teas.
Not bad for the former headquarters of one of the more flavorless beers known to humanity.
Salumeria, 1550 Bryant St.