Our weekly bite explores the city's food trucks, one at a time, highlighting our favorite mobile dishes and snacks.
The Truck: Go Streatry
The Cuisine: "Glorious peasant food"
Specialty Items: Braised, stewed, and roasted foods
Worth the Wait in Line? At peak lunch time, a total 10 minutes from the end of the line to food in hand.
We spend a lot of time and energy chasing the unusual, extreme, and the new in the food truck and restaurant world. The novelty and surprise that accompany these experiences are always entertaining, but unless you have Evel Knievel levels of daredevil blood in your system it's impossible to constantly sustain. We all need to recalibrate to some kind of baseline, a culinary nest to return to, a collective or personal definition of home cooking.
That's exactly the kind of niche that Go Streatry is trying to fulfill with their self-described "peasant food."
What that translates into is a modern California take on homestyle cooking, with everything made from scratch. The food is both comforting, and affordable. The high quality meats used aren't the premium cuts best used in quick cooking, but those that require some effort to coax into tenderness. In exchange for that work and patience, those ingredients reward the diner with flavor like in the Oxtail and Grits ($11, braised beef oxtail in gravy, grits, topped with orange zest and chopped parsley). As much as that delighted us, it was the paper cone filled with Lemon Ricotta Doughnuts ($3) that felt the most like home.
The little golf-ball sized balls of fried dough are tender little morsels dusted in powdered sugar that arrive in a cute paper cone made from the page of a magazine. Each bite is crisp, not at all greasy (indicative of a skilled hand at the fryer), and redolent with lemon. An order is just enough to share or eat all alone, and at three bucks, a total deal.
Perhaps it was the sweet memories of helping the kitchen (really being more of a nuisance than of help, but at least within view), and being given a treat or taste of something sugary to calm our fidgetiness that conjured up nostalgia. Perhaps it's just that fried dough is universally comforting. What ever the reason, Go Streatry succeeds at tasting like home.