Truck is a gay bar with a kitchen on Folsom and 15th streets that, in between bouts of naughtiness, hosts regular pop-ups -- among them, Truck Stop Café and Two Tarts and a Stove. As Truck is something of a dive whose sommelier was, um, fired a few weeks ago, the food had better pair well with Lagunitas.
Enter Ben Ferrari-Church and Dino Konstantakis, the eponymous tarts who toil all evening for you behind their stove. They feed hungry bears with bun bangers (British-style, with house-made tomato relish) and a tasty fried chicken sandwich that one-ups a certain Middle American chain and its homophobic CEO.
The menu changes every month at Swallow, Two Tarts' orgy of salty fried things -- except for the cheeseburger egg rolls, that is, because "if we don't have it, people get angry." (Occasionally, they do throw in some cardiologist-approved items, such as summery insalatas or Tuscan hummus on warm bread). Check it out next on Feb. 20, as on every third Wednesday, from 6 to 10 p.m.
The gooey, delightfully mustard-y Welsh rarebit pictured here emerges at Rarebits, an extended happy hour (also at Truck) where multiple DJs take the helm for 60 minutes each. Already heavy on the cheddar, the rarebit can be rendered even more decadent with the addition of an Angus burger and caramelized onions (for a mere $9!).
Of course, there have been mishaps, such as a variation on the egg rolls that exploded like delicious shrapnel as soon as they hit the oil. And in San Francisco, there's always somebody with a food restriction. Have they sent anyone into anaphylactic shock? "No," says Ferrari-Church, "but we get a lot of 'There's nothing on your menu I can eat.'"
Beyond their monthly events, the Two Tarts are looking to other projects, such as an '80s-themed brunch with "eggs Benedict, and everyone's wearing pastels." Does that mean customers or they themselves? "If customers want to dress up too, oh my God: yes, please!"
Two Tarts and a Stove hosts Swallow at Truck (1900 Folsom) every third Wednesday and serves tasty morsels during Rarebits, also at Truck, every second Friday.
Follow Pete Kane at @wannacyber