The T train can feel like the red brick road that Dorothy never followed out of Munchkinland. Beyond the Dogpatch, where does it go?
It doesn't lead you to sleepy time in a field of opiates, but if you follow it to V2 in Visitacion Valley, a burger and Africa fries might put you in a most delightful food coma.
Newly open in a barebones spot on Leland Avenue, V2 -- as in "V-Squared," not "V-Two" -- is a trek for a lot of folks, but anyone in pursuit of an excellent, inexpensive burger should make a pilgrimage for the half- or quarter-pound option, in beef or a house-made vegetable patty. Throw some bacon or avocado over those thick-sliced onions and you may want to unhinge your jaw to consume it whole.
Not unlike some super-secret menu item at In-N-Out that only the true elite know about and which can only be ordered when the moon is waxing gibbous, the Africa Fries are the proverbial heart-attack-on-a-plate. Covered with fried onions, ketchup, Berbere mayo, and lots of cheese, they're an addicting combination of sweet and savory and must be eaten with a fork.
Sure, there isn't a lot of seating and you need to ask for a napkin, but if you're a burger fiend who considers keeping lunch below $10 while becoming very full to be a moral victory of sorts, you have your new quarry.
V2 Burger, 167 Leland Avenue. [No phone or site].
Follow Pete Kane at @wannacyber