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Friday, October 26, 2012

Braving Brunch: Refreshing Japanese Breakfast at Cassava Bakery + Cafe

Posted By on Fri, Oct 26, 2012 at 1:30 PM

click to enlarge REBECCA HUVAL
  • Rebecca Huval

Notorious for long lines, brunching in the city can easily turn into a whole-day affair. From wait times and signature dishes to ambiance and drink selections, Braving Brunch is your go-to resource for navigating mid-morning meals.

The Spot: Cassava Bakery + Cafe

The Neighborhood: Outer Richmond

The Cuisine: New American

Specialty Item: Japanese Breakfast

To Americans, breakfast means Belgian waffles doused in syrup, fried eggs, and greasy sausage -- in other words, fat, fat, and more fat. But to the Japanese, it means a meal loaded with iron, fiber, and protein, all subtly flavored without the help of grease. Earthy miso soup, koshihikari steamed rice, and gooey soybeans rule the day.

See also:

- Braving Brunch: Sweet and Savory Harmony at Plow

- Braving Brunch: No Wait Makes Sweet Potato Waffles Even Sweeter

- Braving Brunch: Long Lines, Heavenly Eggs Benedict at Mission Beach Cafe

At the recently opened Cassava Bakery + Cafe, Chef Kristoffer Toliao has introduced the Outer Richmond to the best of what Japanese breakfast has to offer. He runs the restaurant with the help of his wife, Yuka Ioroi, in a tiny cafe (hint: arrive early for a table) decked with sprightly flower vases. Trained in Pasadena at Le Cordon Blue College of Culinary Arts, Toliao buffed up on his Japanese cuisine at the Michelin-rated Kikunoi in Tokyo. He said he was stunned by the health-conscious and delectable foods in Japan, and decided to deliver the goods back home.

Japanese breakfast ($10) draws upon Toliao's lessons. Sweet and sticky koshihikari rice serves as the canvas for a hodgepodge of colorful ingredients, including a poached egg floating inside a salty dashi broth (in Japan, the traditional onsen tamago egg is slow-cooked in hot springs, but in San Francisco, Toliao's method is simply sous-vide). Other items tossed into the mix include hijiki, a deep purple seaweed simmered for an hour in niban dashi, or second stock, with sauteed carrots, edamame seasoned with sesame oil, and crunchy lotus root. The mellow flavor is delicately balanced between salty and sweet.

click to enlarge REBECCA HUVAL
  • Rebecca Huval

To complement the hearty rice mixture is miso soup and traditional natto. The soup is made earthy and delicious with ichiban dashi, or the refined first stock made with kombu (edible kelp) steeped in Katsuobushi (shaved tuna flakes) and combined with in-season root vegetables. Then there's the natto, soybeans fermented in stringy bacillus subtilis. Many first-time samplers of the traditional Japanese dish balk at its bitterness. Toliao made his natto newbie-ready by cutting the pungent flavor of bacillus subtilis with Meyer lemon, a fruit native to China.

Depending on the season, Toliao switches out his ingredients. This fall, he has swapped the simmered hijiki for shira-ae, a tofu salad with in-season shimeji mushrooms, lotus root, hijiki, and yam noodles tossed in creamy tofu dressing. In other dishes, he has included items as all-American as a radish. "We want to have the subtlety of the Western influence," Toliao said. "That's the best way to keep it interesting."

"That's what makes cooking here in San Francisco beautiful," he added. "Everyone can have their own take and interpretations."


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Rebecca Huval

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