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Thursday, October 25, 2012

Watch Small Wonders Emerge From Bouche's Tiny Kitchen

Posted By on Thu, Oct 25, 2012 at 12:30 PM

click to enlarge Bouche's marinated salmon. - LARA HATA
  • Lara Hata
  • Bouche's marinated salmon.

French restaurant Bouche is a cozy, hidden gem in the shadow of the Stockton Street Tunnel. While the restaurant does have tables, the real action is at the bar. There you can sit and eat dinner while you take in the impressive sight of chef Nicolas Borzee and his line cooks turning out intricate plates with absolutely no wiggle room.

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click to enlarge Bouche's Nicolas Borzee and crew in the not-so-spacious kitchen. - TAMARA PALMER
  • Tamara Palmer
  • Bouche's Nicolas Borzee and crew in the not-so-spacious kitchen.

Borzee and cohorts have internalized some sort of intricate choreography, because any wasted movement in this itty bitty space could lead to burns, stabbings, or other culinary mishaps. You will observe this with fascination, particularly when a dish lands in front of you with perfect symmetries and eyedropper details. This is most impressively shown in the marinated salmon dish, which is served on a bed of katafi (shredded phyllo) with creme fraiche and a poached egg with herbaceous accents dotted around the plate. It's truly dinner theater without the kitsch.

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Tamara Palmer

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