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Friday, September 7, 2012

Braving Brunch: Sweet and Savory Harmony at Plow

Posted By on Fri, Sep 7, 2012 at 9:00 AM

click to enlarge The Plow has a little bit of everything. - JOSH LESKAR
  • Josh Leskar
  • The Plow has a little bit of everything.
Josh Leskar
The Plow has a little bit of everything.
Notorious for its long lines, brunching in the city can easily turn into a whole-day affair. That's why SFoodie is proud to present its newest series, "Braving Brunch," your go-to resource for navigating the mid-morning meal.

The Spot: Plow

The Neighborhood: Potrero Hill

The Cuisine: New American

Specialty Item: The Plow

Worth the Wait? Definitely

The most difficult part about brunch? Deciding between sweet and savory once it finally comes time to order. Sure, you could share, but at Plow, they've already anticipated your internal debate and solved your woes even before you set foot in the door.

Tucked away in the hills of Potrero, Plow exudes a warm, comforting, homey ambiance thanks to a cozy space, friendly staff and finished wood décor sourced from the Bay Area. You almost get the feel of an upscale diner, with one long counter overlooking the kitchen, tables lined against enormous windows overlooking the 18th Street, and even a few spots outside along the sidewalk.

While Plow offers a solid range of brunch fare, your best bet is to satisfy both sweet and savory sides simultaneously with their signature dish, aptly named "The Plow." Two eggs your style, two lemon ricotta pancakes, a choice of house made pork sausage, bacon, or chicken-apple sausage, and their famous crispy potatoes all pile onto a single plate to produce four mini-meals in one.

The house made pork sausage is dotted with chili flakes that give the patty a decent kick, while the light, fluffy, moist lemon ricotta pancakes offer a clean and bright aspect to the feast before you. Crispy Yukon gold potatoes, good enough to stand on their own, are first boiled, then quickly fried and generously sprinkled with a thyme-heavy herb mixture and tossed with caramelized onions. The result is a pillowy interior encased by a crackling, salty crust. Though I'm typically a sucker for a runny yolk, this dish may lend itself to a firmer iteration of eggs, as there was no ideal vehicle for sopping up the runoff.

The entire dish runs the gamut of flavors and textures -- soft and sweet pancakes, a hearty egg and meat combination, and crunchy potatoes -- leaving you satiated in both quantity and quality.

Early birds can certainly catch the worm and skip the line entirely when Plow welcomes its customers at 8am. If the crack of dawn isn't your cup of tea, expect to be told of a wait of up to an hour and a half as mid-morning rolls around -- though that's usually an over-estimation, as patrons rarely wait more than 45 minutes to an hour. In the meantime, tide yourself over with a cup of coffee and nibble their pastry of the day.

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Josh Leskar


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