Quan Ju Fu opened its second San Francisco location earlier this month in the former Yet Wah space in the Richmond District, and the memories of the old restaurant linger. You might even be served on a Yet Wah plate.
But this is definitely a new restaurant, with fresh offerings from two large menus -- one largely for dim sum and the other for hot pots and large plates. One dish in particular takes the formula for a popular seafood preparation and takes it to the poultry side.
It's most typically seen prepared with crab, shrimp, or lobster, but salt-and-pepper fried duck ($15.95 for a half duck) is fairly unique. It's deep-fried, so it's not a misleading name in that respect, but the "pepper" component is red and green chiles rather than the more innocent-sounding black peppercorn.
Yet unlike when this dish is made with crab or other shellfish and fried whole in the shell, there's no picking apart needed with the duck. The skin gets crackly and crispy in the deep fry but there's also this hearty batter that often gets almost entirely plucked off the seafood. What looks like a small portion ends up being more than enough for two with some sides of rice.
Quan Ju Fu, 2140 Clement (at 23rd Avenue), 221-8018