SFoodie's countdown of our favorite 50 things to eat and drink, 2012 edition
The Germans, of course, have a word for one of SFoodie's favorite times of year: Spargelzeit, or asparagus season. The appearance of asparagus is the moment when going to the farmers' market begins to seem like an adventure again, and when all we can think of is eating things that taste like they have just shot out of a bed of loam, unabashedly vegetal.
At Local: Mission Eatery, spargelzeit means the return of one of Jake Des Voignes' signature brunch-lunch dishes, an open-faced sandwich topped with poached eggs and asparagus from Zuckerman's Farm. It's the culinary equivalent of framing spring's first vegetable in a diamond bracelet.
Pools of liquid gold, thick and unctuous, hide in the centers of the smooth, cloud-white eggs, awaiting a slice of the knife to gild the asparagus and seep into the toasted slice of Shauna Des Voignes' buttery brioche. A poached egg on its own is opulent, it's still not enough for the chef. The cooks finish the dish by using a charged siphon to spray a cloud of Meyer lemon mousseline -- a tart Hollandaise sauce "lightened" up with cream -- over the eggs, asparagus, and toast. It's the kind of treatment asparagus deserves, a one-percenter-tasting dish with a $10 price.
Local: Mission Eatery: 3111 24th St. (at Folsom), 655-3422.
Other favorites in this series:
30: Custard buns from City View
31: Mission Chinese Food's kung pao pastrami
32: Panisse frites from Frances
33: Izakaya Yuzuki's chawanmushi
34: Fatted Calf's chorizo
35: Silvanas from House of Silvanas
36: Linden Street Brewery's black lager
37: Aged oolongs from Red Blossom Tea Company
38: Broken Record's crawfish grits
39: Cebiche mixto from La Mar