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Wednesday, March 14, 2012

Bouche Has All the Skills It Needs, Except Menu Editing

Posted By on Wed, Mar 14, 2012 at 7:50 AM

click to enlarge Bouche's cured salmon with poached egg. - LARA HATA
  • Lara Hata
  • Bouche's cured salmon with poached egg.


His dishes, though, could be divided into the rich and the strange. A dish doesn't come together for one of two reasons: There are flaws in conception and flaws in execution. Usually, it's a case of the kitchen not being able to execute a good idea properly. At Bouche, it was a case of technically precise food with odd flavor or textural combinations. Borzée's best dishes forgo weird contrasts and aim for opulence: chestnut soup with bacon and salsify chips, slow-roasted lamb shoulder with onion-almond jam. Some young chefs need to improve their technique; Borzée simply needs a good editor.

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Jonathan Kauffman

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