His dishes, though, could be divided into the rich and the strange. A dish doesn't come together for one of two reasons: There are flaws in conception and flaws in execution. Usually, it's a case of the kitchen not being able to execute a good idea properly. At Bouche, it was a case of technically precise food with odd flavor or textural combinations. Borzée's best dishes forgo weird contrasts and aim for opulence: chestnut soup with bacon and salsify chips, slow-roasted lamb shoulder with onion-almond jam. Some young chefs need to improve their technique; Borzée simply needs a good editor.