Baker & Banker Bakery, neighbor to Lori Baker and Jeff Banker's restaurant, packs a lot of potency into a small retail space. Recognizing the addictive power of its cookies, B&BB now offers frozen dough to go in two varieties: ginger and brown-butter chocolate chip. For $10, you can bake up to a dozen small cookies in 12 minutes.
Cook E. Monster is a little bit more indulgent than that, so we grabbed a slab of brown butter chocolate chip and cut only nine big pieces to lay out on a cookie sheet. We also picked up a finished cookie from the bakery so as to be incredibly scientific about comparing their results with ours.
Brown butter doesn't often turn up in chocolate-chip cookies. The technique of heating butter until it turns a deep and earthy color, and then separating out the milk solids for a silky, caramelized finish, isn't a practical one for mass-producing cookies, especially when quality standards for chocolate-chip cookies aren't usually all that high.