After three weeks in action as a brick-and-mortar operation, former pop-up favorite Cathead's BBQ is settling nicely into the old Big Nate's space. Shortly after an inaugural visit, SFoodie was magnetically drawn back, with nothing but brisket on the brain. Marinated in Coca Cola, peppers, and spices for two days, Cathead's brisket ($7 as a main, $8 as a sandwich) heads to the smoker for nine hours over a pile of cherry and hickory wood, rendering the beef fork-tender, faintly sweet, and, rare in San Francisco, overwhelmingly, beautifully smoky. Watching the pitmaster hack the beef up with a cleaver all axe-murderer style and then dump it into a pie tin (i.e. your plate) only enhanced the experience. Also tender was a trio of St. Louis pork ribs ($7,) but they suffered from being drenched in an overly sugary BBQ sauce. We would have preferred the ribs served dry, allowing us to add a few squirts of sauce with the bottle provided on our table.