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Thursday, January 12, 2012

Apiece Desserts Has Got The Beet -- Cookies, That Is

Posted By on Thu, Jan 12, 2012 at 11:30 AM

click to enlarge Apiece's beet and chocolate cookies. - TAMARA PALMER
  • Tamara Palmer
  • Apiece's beet and chocolate cookies.
The sky must be falling because we are about to state with wholehearted earnestness that we prefer a vegetable cookie to a chocolate one. But that's a testament to the talent of San Francisco-based Apiece Desserts, a creative wholesale and catering company run by Yuko Fujii.

A pastry chef for the past 11 years, Fujii currently works at Bushi-Tei restaurant. Previous gigs include serving as pastry chef for Citizen Cake (when it was in Hayes Valley), Bacar, and Fifth Floor in San Francisco and Falai and Le Cirque 2000 in New York.

Fujii's cookies explore Japanese flavors with wonderful results, as in her soba shortbread and her green tea/soy cookies. But her biggest conversation piece, and probably her tastiest, is her bag of chocolate and beet cookies.

Her chocolate cookies have crackly sugar bits around the edges, leading to a memorable crunch, and a rich, almost powdery cocoa flavor that is a sophisticated departure from the often-abominable fake flavor of supermarket chocolate cookies. The flower-shaped beet cookies are delicate, almost wafer-like, and have the dominant flavor of a sugar cookie. If you're searching your palate closely, subtle hints of beet are there, popping up as an aftertaste. We're not sure eight servings a day will keep the doctor away, but we find there's little harm in trying.

Find these and other Apiece cookies and sweets at Mifune Bistro in Japan Center (1581 Webster Street). Rainbow Grocery (1745 Folsom) also carries Apiece's coconut cookies and, starting next week, an Earl Grey chocolate tea cake.

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Tamara Palmer


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