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Thursday, December 29, 2011

Plow's Amazing Fried Chicken Sandwich

Posted By on Thu, Dec 29, 2011 at 2:00 PM

click to enlarge Just another reason to go to Plow. - BUNRAB
  • Bunrab
  • Just another reason to go to Plow.

​Maxine Siu and Joel Bleskacek's Plow is deservedly considered one of the best breakfast/brunch spots in the city. Immaculately conceived and executed home fries, lemon-ricotta pancakes worth scuffling over, and dish after dish of homey American breakfast standards fine-tuned to a delectable degree put Plow in the must-eats category in terms of morning meals. 

Add another American classic to the long list the folks behind Plow are absolutely blowing out of the water: the fried chicken sandwich.

Plow's take on this battered poultry spectacle begins with a perfect bun. The bready vessel that encases so many lackluster fried chicken sandwiches fails because the creators aim for an overly crunchy affair. Fried chicken sandwiches don't need a crusty slab of bread; they need a soft, simple sourdough bun that acts as a reserved container for the crunch of the chicken within. Plow uses the doughy delight that is the Acme Bread Torpedo roll to great effect. 

Cushioned within this exemplary bun choice, Siu and company have pocketed away some beautifully fried chicken, capped with a pile of delicate celery root and jalapeño slaw, and long crunchy strands of cabbage. This isn't your batter-shell fried chicken, oh no. This bird is barely coated and only dipped in the fryer long enough for the chicken to pop with moisture and the outer batter to take on a lightly crisped, golden brown.  

And though Siu's fried chicken is clearly the star, the supporting cast is never outshone. The warm, comforting taste of fried chicken done right is snapped in to clarity by the crunch of the cabbage and the soft, pickly, almost funky celeriac tang and distant heat of the slaw. With each bite a cascade of chicken and slaw fall on to the plate, and you'll find yourself scooping up the detritus with your chicken-juice-coated fingers. It's a sandwich worth emitting noises over.

If you were planning to trek up Potrero Hill and shuffle about in the cold for an hour with an anxious crowd of Plow devotees for a taste of their lauded brunch, well, now you just have another reason.

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Noah Sanders


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