Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Park Tavern Has Its Audience Figured Out

Posted By on Wed, Oct 26, 2011 at 8:10 AM

click to enlarge Park Tavern's smoked deviled eggs. - MELISSA BARNES
  • Melissa Barnes
  • Park Tavern's smoked deviled eggs.

Most restaurants take a few, financially perilous months to settle into their own skins. The tables get rearranged to improve the feng shui of the dining room. Slackoff servers are fired and wobbly line cooks are replaced. The kitchen masters the opening menu and is allowed to begin experimenting. More importantly, the foodistas check in and check out, and the restaurant's future regulars -- who will give the place its true character and keep it in business beyond the year mark -- slowly accrue.


Park Tavern -- the subject of this week's full-length restaurant review -- is one of those rare restaurants that springs into existence, fully formed. Though certain details are still a little hazy, Anna Weinberg and Jennifer Puccio's new Washington Square restaurant seems to occupy the same social space that the Washbag and Moose's did in the 1980s and 1990s. Money, new and old, already populates the tables. Puccio's food is solid, both stylistically and technically. And the space is handsome in the George Clooney mold: a little age on the place will wear well.

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie, and like us on Facebook.
Follow me at @JonKauffman.

  • Pin It

Tags: , , , , ,

About The Author

Jonathan Kauffman

Comments

Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook

Slideshows

  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"