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Wednesday, October 5, 2011

2G Brasserie Has a Whiz at the Sushi Bar

Posted By on Wed, Oct 5, 2011 at 10:00 AM

click to enlarge sushi_graphic.jpg

When 2G Brasserie opened at the back of Opera Plaza seven months ago, it had an intriguing menu and one of San Francisco's most respected sushi chefs, Masaki Sasaki, making nigiri. But Sasaki soon left to open Hecho downtown, and the restaurant's ambitions seemed to flag. (The ginormous restaurant is invisible from the street, so it wasn't much of a surprise.)


When the owners announced a few weeks ago, though, that they had hired Tokyo-trained, formerly New-York-based Toshio Oguma, who'd moved west to help open Morimoto Napa, I filtered in and had one of the best sushi meals of the past few years, writing 2G Brasserie up as the subject of this week's full-length review

 Oguma says he makes sushi "old-style," marinating and seasoning his fish in ways few American-trained sushi chefs take the time to do. If you're open to sitting at his bar, trying whatever saba and sanma and fluke he hands over the counter, you'll easily have the same experience. The cooked Japanese standards weren't nearly as compelling, though the East-West entrees at the bottom of the menu showcase the strong French-California training of new hot-line chef Yasuhiro Ueno, who worked previously at Chaya and Foreign Cinema.

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Jonathan Kauffman

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