When 2G Brasserie opened at the back of Opera Plaza seven months ago, it had an intriguing menu and one of San Francisco's most respected sushi chefs, Masaki Sasaki, making nigiri. But Sasaki soon left to open Hecho downtown, and the restaurant's ambitions seemed to flag. (The ginormous restaurant is invisible from the street, so it wasn't much of a surprise.)
Oguma says he makes sushi "old-style," marinating and seasoning his fish in ways few American-trained sushi chefs take the time to do. If you're open to sitting at his bar, trying whatever saba and sanma and fluke he hands over the counter, you'll easily have the same experience. The cooked Japanese standards weren't nearly as compelling, though the East-West entrees at the bottom of the menu showcase the strong French-California training of new hot-line chef Yasuhiro Ueno, who worked previously at Chaya and Foreign Cinema.