People love the idea of comfortable authenticity, exploring another culture without the prickle of disorientation. Fancy banh mi, served in restaurants where the sandwich makers don't bark at you and you're not afraid to touch the tables. Mexican restaurants with big, frothy margaritas and lots of free chips, maybe even a waitress with a faint Spanish lilt. Epcot Center. Shenzen Window of the World.
So the moment I heard of Tacko
, I couldn't resist visiting. In fact, it's the subject of this week's full-length restaurant review
. See, Tacko dispenses with the illusion of comfortable authenticity. Nick Fasanella's new taco shop is decorated like a Nantucket seafood shack, with absolutely no signifiers of Mexican-ness besides the menu board. In an era of kalbi tacos and sisig tacos, why shouldn't Tacko proclaim its roots?