San Franciscans could be excused for having a lackluster attitude toward piroshki. Until now, choices have been limited to limp, microwaved deli counter ovals or the greasy, Fryolator variety served up at numerous Richmond District Russian bakeries. However, with the opening of Anda Piroshki in Bernal Heights' 331 Cortland Marketplace, the piroshki is finally getting its moment in the local sun. One-woman operation Anna Tvelova bakes her version rather than frying it, rendering the bun delicate and soft like a Philadelphia pretzel.
The cheesy potato ($4) is filled with tangy cheddar, mashed potatoes, and lots of onions, enough that you'll want a few Altoids handy for after. For a heartier alternative, go with the beef and cheese ($4), loaded with saucy shredded beef that squirts with each bite like a juicy burger. Stained pants aside, it was delicious. Far from being gut bombs, one of Anda's piroshkis works as a midday snack but we suggest two for a meal. Tvevlova bakes in small batches throughout the day so you're assured that your nosh will be fresh. SFoodie eyeballed a "nine-vegetable" borscht that will be a sure order on our next visit. Authentic piroshkis that don't make us feel sweaty and ill? Yes, there will be a next visit.
Anda Piroshki at 331 Cortland Marketplace, 331 Cortland (at Bennington), 271-9055