Somehow, though, my meals there didn't yet come together, and I've spent
the past month trying to think about why. Sometimes it was a matter of
dishes that worked conceptually but not practically. And if I were to go
again, I would just go for the full tasting menu, which is what Crenn
seems to have designed the entire restaurant around (given the
constraints of my job and my review budget, once I made a first visit,
going back for the just wasn't possible). To order less than 10 courses
is to ask Atelier Crenn to be a restaurant, where I think Crenn wants it
to be a spectacle, a poetry reading, an art installation.
I do think she'll work it out. Once Crenn's settling-in period is over,
and she's had a few more months to perfect the execution and the pacing
of the dishes, and her farm is producing everything she wants it to, the
prospect of a thrilling meal there awaits.