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Wednesday, March 16, 2011

No. 44: Sandwich Cookies from Sweet Constructions

Posted By on Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 6:16 PM

click to enlarge Sweet Constructions' sandwich cookies, right, with chocolate crackles and a brownie. - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Sweet Constructions' sandwich cookies, right, with chocolate crackles and a brownie.

SFoodie's countdown of our 92 favorite things to eat and drink in San Francisco, 2011 edition.

click to enlarge sf_92.jpg

On the street, Mindi Canner and Kate Kuckro look like they should be cinched up in crossing-guard vests, over-handing the steering wheel on a school bus, or delivering mail. In fact, they're talented pastry chefs ― never mind that they're self-taught ― who turn out cupcakes, bars, and above all cookies with a kind of shimmering delicacy.

A couple of times a week, Canner and Kuckro hit the streets with their modest-looking cart as Sweet Constructions. The two met when they lived in the same Mission duplex. In 2001, Canner was working at a law firm, and to make a little extra money for the holidays she and Kuckro decided to collaborate on cookie boxes hawked to friends and co-workers. About a year and a half ago ― amid the frenzy of the Mission's food-cart scene ― they launched Sweet Constructions, wheeling their baked goods from Sunday Streets to fabric8's Street Food Fridays.

It's hard to choose a favorite from Canner and Kuckro's repertoire. Their chocolate crackle cookies ($1) are the tenderest we've had, and Sweet Constructions' shiny cube of a chocolate brownie ($1) is moist as pavé under its stratum of ganache, cut so precisely it looks like a geologic cross-section. But we have to give the edge to the sandwich cookie ($1.50), bracketed with plush coconut wafers. They're pale as good butter, with a luxe surface like a waffle-weave hotel bathrobe and a nicely friable texture. Inside there's raspberry jam, kept in place with a piped-in ring of vanilla buttercream ― jam Canner and Kuckro put up themselves, in season, from fruit sourced at farmers' markets. And that waffle texture? Canner says they get it via the textured end of a meat tenderizer, dipped in sugar.

Sweet Constructions: Cookies are available online and from the Sweet Constructions cart; follow its movements on Twitter at @sfcookies.

Dishes in our series so far:

92: Goat tacos from El Norteño

91: Faux shark's fin soup at Benu

90: Esperpento's alcachofas a la plancha

89: Poco Dolce's olive oil chocolate bar

88: Decantr's chicken-liver mousseline

87: Outerlands' levain bread

86: Fraîche's frozen yogurt

85: Gyro King's spinach pie

84: Tandoori fish from Lahore Karahi

83: Braised oxtail and daikon from Namu

82: Golden Gate Bakery's custard tarts

81: Commonwealth's cured foie gras with umeboshi purée

80: Star Stream's Liège-style waffle

79: Mexican hot chocolate from La Oaxaqueña

78: Meatball sandwich from Mario's Bohemian Cigar Store Cafe

77: Cheesecake from Zanze's

76: Chicken pepian at San Miguel

75: Macau iced coffee at Vega/Special Xtra

74: Comstock Saloon's Pisco Punch

73: Hai Ky Mi Gia's duck leg noodle soup

72: Sauerbraten at Walzwerk

71: Boudin noir at Cafe Bastille

70: Blackstrap molasses gingerbread at Lotta's Bakery

69: Plow's crispy potatoes

68: Prospect's Catcher in the Rye

67: Pork banh mi from Little Vietnam Cafe

66: Nakaochi at Ippuku

65: Sidekick's chocolate spritzer

64: Farmhouse Culture's horseradish-leek sauerkraut

63: Destination Baking Co.'s challah

62: Cotogna's roasted carrots

61: Hard Knox Cafe's chicken and waffles

60: The Rebel Within from Tell Tale Preserve Co.

59: The Slanted Door's Whiskey Cocktail

58: Carnitas burrito from Taqueria San Francisco

57: Sakura mochi from Benkyodo

56: Birria at Gallardos

55: BBQ pork skewers at Fil-Am Cuisine

54: JapaCurry's katsu curry

53: Vegan flan at Gracias Madre

52: Cinderella Bakery's pelmeni

51: Locavore's maple andouille sausage

50: Lumpia from Hapa SF

49: Moonlight Brewing's Reality Czeck

48: Filetti pizza at Una Pizza Napoletana

47: Pupusas revueltas at La Santaneca

46: Khoresht ghaymeh at Maykadeh

45: Los Muertos at Gitane

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie, and like us on Facebook. Contact me at John.Birdsall@SFWeekly.com

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