We're not sure if news of the incoming branch of Pearl's Burgers at the corner of Sixth and Market streets spooked 6-month-old John's Burgers (it relocated to Seventh and Market), but we're sure glad Taco's Sandwiches took over John's old space. While Show Dogs, Split Pea Seduction, and Passion Cafe have brought a measure of gentrification to this gritty neighborhood, old-timer Tu Lan and a few other hole-in-the-walls have been fighting a lonely battle to offer affordable eats. Taco's Sandwiches recently joined the fight, launching an "everything under $7" campaign. It's proof that food doesn't have to be expensive to be delicious.
Don't let the name throw you - you won't find a tortilla at Taco's, just tasty sandwiches. Owner Michael Tacotaco (just call him Taco) has reason to be proud. His enormous sandwiches ($6.25-$6.75) are jammed with ingredients. Pulled-pork adobo ($6.25) is Taco's signature, made with slowly braised pork shoulder, grilled onions, house-made slaw, and chipotle aioli. The one we tried was steaming hot and really good. But it was the Cajun-dusted fish po boy ($6.25), with its oversized piece of basa, a catfish cousin, that made us swoon. The fresh-from-the-fryer fillet (tartar and hot sauce on the side) was the tastiest catfish we've had in a long time.
By the way, don't forget to check the specials board. Taco says he tries to feature something new each week.
Taco's Sandwiches: 6 Sixth St. (at Market), 863-8226. Open Mon.-Sat., 10:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m.; closed Sun. Cash only.