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Wednesday, February 16, 2011

This Week's Review: Beast and the Hare (and Squid and Chicken etc. etc.)

Posted By on Wed, Feb 16, 2011 at 5:57 PM

click to enlarge The ambrosia taco: Five kinds of meat from three species. - LARA HATA
  • Lara Hata
  • The ambrosia taco: Five kinds of meat from three species.

Butchering classes, meat zines, whole-hog dinners, bacon chocolates: We've been living in the decade of the dead animal, haven't we? After suffering through far too many flavorless chicken breasts, I, for one, am glad that all of us have examined our omnivorousness and claimed it proudly or gone vegan. I'm also glad I never got that butchery-diagram tattoo I thought about in the early naughts.

Even though the New York food fashionistas are hinting that the next decade will be all about vegetable cookery, the meat love is still strong with us San Franciscans. This week's review, of Ian Marks and Dylan Denicke's Beast and the Hare, proves it so. The Mission restaurant is a neighborhood hangout with a menu whose species count is almost worthy of a medieval banquet. I had some food of great delicacy ― my word, does that charcuterie plate hit some heights! ― and others heavy enough to have me Googling the phrase "gout prevention." On the whole, the place is a good spot for a few beers and a platter of fried chicken. In short, a great Thursday night out.

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Jonathan Kauffman


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