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Friday, February 4, 2011

No. 72: Sauerbraten at Walzwerk

Posted By on Fri, Feb 4, 2011 at 5:42 PM

click to enlarge Walzwerk's sauerbraten, $18. - EARL G./FLICKR
  • Earl G./Flickr
  • Walzwerk's sauerbraten, $18.

SFoodie's countdown of the 92 best things to eat and drink in San Francisco, 2011 edition.

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SFoodie has eaten sauerbratens so vinegary we worried that the meat had spoiled. But Walzwerk's sauerbraten, one of the Mission restaurant's best dishes, hits just the right balance of meat to marinade. According to Walzwerk's chef, Matt Shapiro, the restaurant's recipe comes from the owner's Thuringian relatives. Shapiro bathes tri-tip in red wine, vinegar, and spices for three to four days, then sautés aromatic vegetables and braises the meat in the marinade.

During the long simmer, the wine reduces and commingles with the beef juices, the flavors penetrating to the heart of the cut. Sliced and sauced, the sauerbraten is sour, but wine-sour instead of piercingly tart, and so tender that the meat slides apart when you push at it with your knife. Mop up the sauce with boiled potatoes or the restaurant's feathery spaetzle.

Walzwerk: 381 S. Van Ness (at 15th St.), 551-7181.

Dishes in our series so far:

92: Goat tacos from El Norteño

91: Faux shark's fin soup at Benu

90: Esperpento's alcachofas a la plancha

89: Poco Dolce's olive oil chocolate bar

88: Decantr's chicken-liver mousseline

87: Outerlands' levain bread

86: Fraîche's frozen yogurt

85: Gyro King's spinach pie

84: Tandoori fish from Lahore Karahi

83: Braised oxtail and daikon from Namu

82: Golden Gate Bakery's custard tart

81: Commonwealth's cured foie gras with umeboshi purée

80: Star Stream's Liège-style waffle

79: Mexican hot chocolate from La Oaxaqueña

78: Meatball sandwich from Mario's Bohemian Cigar Store Cafe

77: Cheesecake from Zanze's

76: Chicken pepian at San Miguel

75: Macau iced coffee at Vega/Special Xtra

74: Comstock Saloon's Pisco Punch

73: Hai Ky Mi Gia's duck leg noodle soup

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie, and like us on Facebook. Follow me at @JonKauffman.

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Jonathan Kauffman

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