Binh's Lao sausage sandwich from Pal's Takeaway: Inside Tony's Market, 2741 24th St. (at Hampshire), 203-4911, palstakeaway.com.
Every few weeks, Jeff Mason advertises a sandwich featuring the aromatic homemade sausages he buys off the sisters who run Vientian Cafe in Oakland. Lime leaves, garlic, and lemongrass streak through the nose when you bite down, chased by red peppers; and while the pickled shredded carrots and cilantro Mason piles on top pay homage to the banh mi, the bitter greens and denser French-style bread keep it from tasting like an imitation.
3. Fried aji sandwich at Skool: 1725 Alameda (at DeHaro), 255-8800, skoolsf.com.
Toshihiro Nagano's aji sandwich rethinks the Filet-O-Fish: Instead of a wan splurt of mayonnaise on a thickly breaded fillet of pollock, he lightly breads buttery Spanish mackerel and serves it on crisp levain bread with pickled cabbage and a spoonful of a mustard, herb, and chopped-egg relish.