Last night, 24 hours after some of his fellow Top Chef
alumni made their return to Bravo
to chase the fame dragon one more time, Ryan Scott
returned to the public eye in another form: behind the windows of a food truck. Scott ― known locally for his stints at Myth and Mission Beach Cafe ― debuted his new truck, 3-Sum Eats
at Thursday night's Off the Grid street-food rumble in the Upper Haight.
Like Hapa SF and the Taco Guys, 3-Sum Eats applies decades of formal kitchen training to simple, grab-and-eat food ― salads, soups, sandwiches, and cupcakes. (You can read a sample menu on his website
). I picked up a short-rib sandwich with upland cress, caramelized shallot relish, and melted fontina ($9). The shallots defined the sandwich ― sweet and fragrant in the same measure, their flavor amplified with horseradish and a shower of fried shallots. They moistened up the shredded beef and heralded the bite of the cress.
Scott is aiming straight for the id with his take on tater tots ($4). He serves a basket of breaded, fried potato gnocchi with a plastic tub of "dirty ranch," which the ticket-taker told us referred to the black garlic in the sauce. (Given the truck's penchant for double-entendres, I fear there's a reference to a dirty sanchez as well ― you'll have to Google that term yourself, and please don't blame me for the trauma it causes).
The faux-tots are a work in progress: a great idea, but still a little dense and chewy for our tastes. Overall, though, I thought Scott's take on food-truck Americana is smartly done ― in step with what's appearing at bistros, and upscaled just enough to give good ingredients their due.
3-Sum Eats: 3-sumeats.com; Twitter: @3sumeats.