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Friday, December 3, 2010

Have a Jelly Doughnut for Hanukkah

Posted By on Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 9:27 AM

click to enlarge Israel Kosher Meat's sufganiyah, $2.
  • Israel Kosher Meat's sufganiyah, $2.

Israel Kosher Meat, Poultry & Deli is a Russian Jewish deli in the Outer Richmond that wears its age as unabashedly as it does its faith. While the shelves are sparsely stocked and the front window needs a good scrubbing, Yelpers love the place for its matzoh ball soup. What drew SFoodie into the shop yesterday was a tray of pastry googly-eyes in the window: sugar-dusted doughnuts, each dotted with a glistening spot of red jelly. Sufganiyot! 

Made in house, the shop's Israeli Hanukkah doughnuts are the rare raised doughnut that still smells of yeast and fresh oil. And while the jelly on top could come from any vat of anonymous berry filling, the airy sponge is impossible for a doughnut chain to recreate. Do pay attention to the powdered sugar, though. We arrived home looking like we could pose for a winter wonderland scene.

Israel Kosher Meat, Poultry & Deli: 5621 Geary (at 20th St.), 752-3064. Open until sundown today, then again Sunday morning.

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Jonathan Kauffman

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