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Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Sidekick's Cottage Cheese Dumpling Soup

Posted By on Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 7:30 AM

click to enlarge Cottage cheese dumplings in Grana Padana cheese broth with toasted levain ($6.75) - TAMARA PALMER
  • Tamara Palmer
  • Cottage cheese dumplings in Grana Padana cheese broth with toasted levain ($6.75)
Tuesday, October 12, 2010

click to enlarge TAMARA PALMER
  • Tamara Palmer


We don't frequently rave about soup, but we shook our head and marveled at every slurp of the cottage-cheese dumpling variety we recently inhaled at Cowgirl Creamery's new spin-off shop, Sidekick. It's a healthier, Northern California take on the comfort of a fatty French onion soup.

You first notice the vibrancy of the broth, umami-boosted with grana padano cheese, and then the fresh crunch of tiny slices of green bean. You'll fish those out as soon as you've devoured every last one of the tiny, delicate cottage cheese pillows. (If you haven't tried Cowgirl's cottage cheese, you're missing out.)

The squishy chunks of toasted levain that soak up the brothy goodness are what draws the mind back to French onion soup. But this bowl will actually make you feel better after you eat it, rather than sinking you into a post-lunch food coma under your desk.

Sidekick 1 Ferry Bldg. #19 (at Embarcadero), 392-4000.

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Tamara Palmer

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