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Monday, October 4, 2010

If You're Stopping at Los Compadres, Get the Steak

Posted By on Mon, Oct 4, 2010 at 7:30 AM

click to enlarge Clockwise from top: Al pastor, lengua, carne asada, three for $5. - JONATHAN KAUFFMAN
  • Jonathan Kauffman
  • Clockwise from top: Al pastor, lengua, carne asada, three for $5.
Monday, October 4, 2010



There are a lot of San Franciscans out there compensating for all the times they called a taco truck a "roach coach" by hyping street food as the most brilliant amazing superdelicious food they've ever driven around town hunting for. The truth is, a lot of the street food out there is casual fare, about as memorable as the subs you pick up at the sandwich shop around the corner from your office. Sometimes it's brilliantamazingsuperdelicious, sometime's it's a decent plate of tacos you grab when you don't have time to sit down for lunch.

Los Compadres, the last stop on my tour of downtown taco trucks, is pretty much the latter. Decent meats, decent salsa,

decent prices ― $5 for a plate of three. It's fitting that the only standout taco I tried was the most banal: the carne asada, with a nice bit of char to the meat and not a whit of gristle. What's memorable about Los Compadres, perhaps, is that it's one extra lunchtime outlet in a corner of town that needs more noon meal options, and that most of the people who cluster around the window, lanyards fluttering in the breeze, wouldn't have patronized a taco truck a few years before. Banality can be its own marker of progress.

Los Compadres:
Parking lot at the corner of Folsom and Spear.

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Jonathan Kauffman

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