The anti-pizza sentiment in the media is almost as extreme as the public furor for it. While the foodistas may yawn, or moan, about the appearance of yet another upscale pizzeria, Zero Zero ― the subject of this week's review ― was packed when I went for dinner and packed again when I went for lunch. The lines outside the just-opened Una Pizza Napoletana this weekend are reported to be suicidally long, and I expect the ones outside Ragazza, which opens tonight, will rival them.
From the perspective of a critic, the prospect of
coming up with interesting things to say about all the competitors
rolling into town is already torturous. As a devoted pizza eater, however, I'm tempted to agree with
Zero Zero's owner, Bruce Hill, when he told SFoodie that there's room in
every neighborhood for an artisanal pizza place like his.
That said, San Franciscans have the luxury of becoming exceedingly picky ― and pizza is a subject area most of us already consider ourselves experts in. There's much to like at Zero Zero, but given the restaurant's new competition and its $40-a-person price tag, much to improve, too.
How did you think Zero Zero measured up? Leave a comment.