Order the Dagwood, and he hoists a precooked patty from a covered saucepan onto the grill's black surface, followed by a butterflied hot link, a thick slice of lunchmeat ham, and onions. Meanwhile, grandma cracks an egg, flips and twists it till it's gnarled like her hand. It all ends up on a single bun flocked with mayo and yellow mustard, a beast of a burger: salty and fatty, spicy and creamy ― more delicious than you thought you'd admit ― and absolutely impossible to linger over. Within minutes, the bun dissolves under the weight and juice like a plastic foam cup filled with hot grease. Glancing over at your table, a kid with muscle-y arms and a do rag becomes your co-conspirator: "How's that burger taste, cousin?"
What else can you say? "Goood, man."
Crown Burgers: 4000 Third St. (at Galvez).