We weren't sure where we stood on the $8 nectarine, but a recent trip to Oakland restaurant Camino put us in fruit's corner. After a delicious multicourse meal, it was the Bronx grapes from Lagier Ranches that hit the spot. The $4 dessert with nothing more than grapes on a dish, and it was perfect. We imagined what a wine made from them would taste like. We felt the perfect snap of skin on our tongue ― it elicited scandalous thoughts (as all good desserts should). Taste and complexity: It was all there. The only thing missing was the shirtless man to peel them and feed us, fanning us with palm fronds.